Four Fez

Fez is the fourth largest city in Morocco, and one of four Moroccan “imperial cities” (the others being Marrakesh, Meknes and Rabat).

Its incredibly busy and amazingly large central medina is a mass of twisting streets and jumbling alleyways. No streets go in straight lines or turn at right angles, and alleys narrow to slim fissures or suddenly dead-end without reason. Although I am usually blessed with a fairly good sense of direction, I got hopelessly (although not unintentionally) lost a number of times.

Fez’s medina, in fact, is believed to be the largest contiguous car-free urban area in the world, and is a UNESCO World Heritage sight.

It is believed that near the end of the 12th century, Fez was the largest city in the world, attracting Muslim, Jewish and Christian immigrants both by virtue of its prosperous trade and renown as a center of scientific and religious learning. Repeatedly Fez ruled as the capital city of Morocco, the latest until 1912 when the French shifted the seat of power to coastal Rabat.

And Fez, of course, was originally the only source of those conical red felt hats, known throughout the world as…fez hats. Precious few of those remain in fashion, however, ousted it seems by a sudden invasion of baseball caps.

Fez may not have retained all of its traditions or its status of old, but it certainly hasn’t forfeited its charms. The fourth largest city, one of the four imperial cities, belongs at the fore of any Moroccan itinerary, for sure.