Pascal in Pushkar

Pascal shows up with rice on his forehead

Pascal describes some of his experiences in the holy city of Pushkar:

My new goal in Pushkar, video camera in hand, was to interact with as many people as possible and get some of it on film. I was kind of sick of just doing one overall anonymous scene after another. There are only so many video shots of “oh here’s a marketplace, let’s pan around and see crowds”. I wanted conversation, interaction, something worthwhile.

The going thing at lake Pushkar is to put a flower in the lake. Now, receiving a flower is a nice gift, but really what they’ll do is stay glued to your hip and introduce themselves as a brahmin (priest) who can perform a special lake gift-giving ceremony. All in the name of good karma, of course.

So I went down and thought: I’ll do this ceremony, give them a little something and move on to other things. So the guy sat down by the lake, did the flower and colored powder ceremony, dumped it in the lake and did a bunch of “repeat this hindu scripture after me” routine. Mind you, this guy is wearing blue jeans and a t-shirt and has the ceremony interrupted a few times by the cell phone ringing in his pocket.

So the stuff to repeat is pretty typical at first, Brahm, Shiva, Vishnu, the works. Then it strays a little bit. The last part was in English and said “I promise to give xxx”.
“How much do you want to give? See, Queen Elizabeth (or some such) gave an entire building over there at that ghat. Europeans give Euros, Americans give dollars. Some people give thousands of dollars. But I’m not asking you for that much. What do you feel comfortable giving?”
“I’ve got rupees. I can probably give 100.”
“100?! [incredulous, scandalized look] You Americans are powerful and wealthy. You only come here once. This is your opportunity to get good kharma.”
“Whatever, I’ll decide what I want to give later. Just finish the prayer.”
“You need to promise something. There are 52 ghats, 2000 brahmins here, this is how they eat. 100 rupees times, let’s see, three gods, several people you’re praying for, let’s round it off and make it 1100 rupees.”
“What is this charity anyway? Is it the box?” [the one smack in the middle of the stairs leading down to the lake marked “donations” in big letters]
“No, it’s my friend over here, he’ll take care of it.” [nondescript wooden box on a shopping stand]
“…”
“Look, don’t you trust me?”
“…”
“Ok, tell me how much. I’m not requiring you to promise anything in particular. My blessing will be the same regardless. 1100 is a lucky number.”
“Whatever, it might be more, it might be less. Just finish.”
[Starts doing the “I promise dollars” prayer]
“No.”
[Goes into routine again about powerful Americans, how our money is lost all the time on hotels and food]
“No.”
[angrily washes off plate, finishes off the powders, pulls out a red string bracelet]
“This bracelet is for you. We call it the Pushkar Passport. You must have one before entering the Brahma temple. No one will bother you on the street with flowers if you wear it.”
“I don’t want it.”
“You must have one. Otherwise people will annoy you.”
“I can handle the harassment. Not much different than anywhere else in India.”
“Please take it.”
“I don’t mind being offered flowers all the time.”
“It’s a blessing.”
“I feel blessed already.”
“It’s required for the Brahm temple.”
“Not really.”
[prompts for donation. I put 100 rupees in, consider adding more but don’t feel comfortable. He picks it up and walks off in a huff. I stick around by the lake and enjoy the brief peace and quiet.]

A few minutes later, I’m talking to the helper and he offers the bracelet again. So I figure it’s better to have one and not need it, than need one and not have it. I’ve been experimenting with my sleeves down, someone starts bothering me so I show the Pushkar Passport. Then they exclaim “You know, second ceremony is very very auspicious! Now is a special time to do it, only twenty minutes more possible!”

The whole good-karma rationale is really popular in India and especially in a holy place like Pushkar. Some kid will poke his fat belly, do a hand-quack in front of his mouth and then hold his hand out. Tell them no and you get the “now you have bad karma” follow-up. No rupees for the bearded buy sitting by the entrance? “Bad karma.” I wonder if locals come to a holy place like this and get their karma pummeled.

There is basically one main drag in Pushkar and every shop is on it. Just one long row of clothing, stone, music, book, movie, shoe, aroma, incense, statue and convenience stores. Many visit Pushkar on a spiritual journey and flock to the city on weekends. During the week the streets are almost like a ghost town filled up somewhat by wandering tourists.

One thing to watch out for are the henna dumpers. They start up a conversation, start scribbling henna on your hand. When they’re done, “Usually I charge 900 rupees for this, but because you’re my friend, only 800.” Just for reference, that’s enough for two higher-end double rooms at tourist hotels or 16 restaurant meals.

[Gabriel’s note: Pascal is holding out on the full henna story. Ask him for details.]

Then I met another so-called brahmin. This guy looked more authentic; he had a beard, more body markings and wore ragged clothing.
“You know, Pushkar lake is this way, yes?”
“Right.”
“I am brahmin You come with me and do ceremony by lake?”
“No, I’m good. I did one already.”
[pauses, confused, looks at wrists] “But you have no Pushkar Passport.”
[I pull the string out of my pocket and show it to him.] “Yesterday.”
“Ah. I see.” [brief pause] “You want hash? I know a house down the road…”
“No.”

These obnoxious experiences were outnumbered by the good ones though. I found a small shop owner who knew many of the locals passing by, had a genuine smile for everyone, worked with his aunt and had some fun comments to share. He offered tea and never once asked for money or purchasing anything.

There was a young kid from the desert whose business involved playing a local instrument for tourists. His family had recorded an album CD and along with more of the locals they had gotten a DVD made by a Spanish company. Not pushy, good personality, I ended up giving him something for his efforts.

The parcel post shop owner was also nice, and showed some of the many packages he had sent over the months. There were 50 – 150 kg packages of products heading to Spain, America, England and so on. The aroma shop owner and his brother, the men playing cards on the side of the road. Many wonderful people.

So, at the end of the day, I got what I wanted. Plenty of conversations, interactions, interesting people and local culture. A few less rupees. And a few great video clips.